Smoothing clay Sculpture

This is to mark the area where the edge of the clay finishes and will appear through the paint.
Note the soft beige colored clay blocks on the forehead and chin (top and bottom). This will become the area in which you place a screwdriver to pry the mold open.

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The process:

Once the sculpture is complete, it is now ready to be coated with FuseFX F-201 Pure White. FuseFX silicone paints can be reduced for spray painting by mixing 1 part paint to 2 parts solvents. Please read the Application Instructions and observe ALL safety precautions.
Spraying Silicone - If you are spraying silicone, try to do your spraying outdoors in an open space. Anyone in the spray area must wear a NIOSH approved respirator, regardless if spraying outdoors or indoors.
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Start by airbrushing or spray painting into hard to reach places and crevices like the nostrils and the cheeks. Let set for several minutes and continue building up the surface. It's always best to apply in layers.
Do not apply too much paint at one time; this may cause it to pool or run.
At this point you have to be careful because the paint surface is still delicate and any marks may transfer into your mold.
You can let the paint cure for several hours or carefully force cure with a hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat your sculpture. You don't want your clay to start melting...!
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Once cured, you can check your plaster cast for areas that have "keys" which the Shell-Shock may get caught on; in this case, the eye socket.
I carefully added a little bit of clay and brushed on a coat of FuseFX F-201 Pure White, then I let it cure.

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Once the FuseFX F-201 Pure White skin is cured, I re-draw the line carefully with a marker. This line will permanently transfer onto your Shell-Shock mold.
The line is used as reference for where your clay sculpture ends. This is very useful when doing intrinsic painting.
Again be careful, the silicone surface may be cured but it's still delicate.
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